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Crete : The area of Vamos




Introduction

The municipality of Vamos, the capital town of which bears the same name (communities of Vamos and Douliana), consists of the former districts of Gavalohori (Gavalohori, Agios Pavlos, Koprana, Agios Vasilios), Plaka (Plaka, Almirida, Kabia), Kokino Horio, Kaina, Kefala (Kefalas, Paleloni, Drapanos), Xerosternio (Xerosterni, Litsarda), Selia (Selia, Souri, Likotinara), Kalamitsi Alexandrou. It is a semi-mountainous area with interesting natural surroundings, dominated by local woody (oak, holm-oak, cypress, wild almond, carob, laurel and pear trees) or bushy (hairy thorny brooms, cretan sage, herbs etc.) flora and architectural heritage. Small villages, most of which are old, are spread throughout the area, which is characterised by a lack of water and limited agricultural productivity. While this lack of resources resulted in a severe reduction of the population it did not have any effect on the architectural character or the natural surroundings of the region until recently. This is the main reason why a lot of foreigners buy old houses or land and settle here. The biggest part of the steep, rocky coastline has preserved its natural wild beauty and is proposed to become a protected area under the Natura 2000 Environmental Management Program.

One can reach the sea from Kera and Almirida whereas Kokino Horio, Kefalas and Likotinara provide steep access to the beach. Due to the reasons mentioned above, the region is suitable for mild tourist development, which is evident in Plaka and Almirida and subtle in Vamos, Gavalohori and other smaller villages mainly from tourists visiting East Apokoronos. The recent establishment of a developmental agency in Vamos with the aim of mild tourist development and the preservation of local character creates guidelines for the development of the area and the new municipality. The foundation of the Hania Environmental Education Centre at the old school of Kefalas, by the county council is also along those lines for local development, assuming that its operations are fairly and properly distributed throughout the local villages.
The status of Gavalohori and surrounding villages as protected areas, combined with the recent request to class Vamos as a traditional protected village, are considered to be advantages of the region. The Ministry for the Environment, Physical Planning and Public Works has characterised most other villages in the area as important and interesting, however, their actual protection is the responsibility of the new municipality.

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Villages

Vamos
  • Vamos
  • Douliana
Gavalohori
  • Gavalohori
  • Agios Pavlos
  • Koprana
  • Agios Vassilios
Plaka
  • Plaka
  • Almirida
  • Kambia
Kokkino Horio

Kainas

Kefalas

  • Kefalas
  • Paleloni
  • Drapano
Xirosterni
  • Xirosterno
  • Litsarda
Sellia
  • Sellia
  • Souri
  • Likotinara
Kalamitsi Alexandrou

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1. VAMOS
(Vamos, Douliana)

Vamos (aerial photograph), the capital of Apokoronos district and previously of the Sfakia prefecture-today capital of the new municipality- is an exceptionally interesting village that the Ministry for the Environment, Physical Planning and Public Works has classed as traditional.
It is more like a small town, very well preserved, with folk and neoclassical architectural elements (cultural centre).
The initiative of a group of inhabitants to create an association for the preservation of the village as well as alternative tourism strategies is already paying off while constituting a model for further local progress. Their organisation successfully manages to make all visitors friends of Vamos. They enchant visitors with the beauty of their village (lane), lying green (Vamos grove) and peaceful at the foot of Madares, with their warm hospitality, traditional cafes - kafeneion - , beautiful old buildings behind each of which lies a story, and their wonderful steep lanes.
The famous art and cultural festivals are good opportunities for everyone to experience the hospitality and entertainment Vamos can offer. Interesting buildings in the village are the Agios Nikolaos and Agios Georgios churches, the restored old school (built in 1863) with the old girl's school in its yard, which is now used as a guesthouse.

Vamos was the site of many battles in 1866 and 1896. The 1896 events attracted foreign interest and were the cause of the General Cretan Revolutionary Meeting (with Roussos Koundouros presiding) in Vamos with the aim of the independence of Crete (memorial).

It is worthwhile visiting Vamos. It is worth becoming one of the "initiated" friends of Vamos

In the district of Vamos, in the venetian village of Karidi Kartsomado one can see the ruins of the small single-roomed monastery of Panagia at Katomeri, complete with frescoes dating from the 13th century.
Opposite the aforementioned village lies another venetian village, Karidi of Agios Georgios, with its venetian villa and other buildings including the large monastery of Agios Georgios, which is still active and constitutes the most interesting architectural element in the prefecture of Hania. Buildings such as the large olive oil press can be restored and become a living agricultural museum or cater for a wide variety of public events.
Douliana is a small community in this district, situated on a hill with beautiful natural surroundings and interesting architecture. This traditionally preserved community has maintained its character more than any other community in the area. Many foreigners live permanently in the village. The locals take a great interest in issues regarding the preservation of the community.

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KEFALAS
(Kefalas - Paleloni - Drapano)

The community of Kefalas is situated approximately 4 km to the east of Vamos. During the Venetian occupation higher and lower Kefalas were classed as two separate villages, however, today they have become one. It is a large village built in an outstanding position facing the sea with architecture dominated by the influence of the early and late years of the Turkish occupation. This influence is well preserved despite the existence of other architectural styles.
The church of Timios Stavros (16th century) is the oldest building of the village while the more recent churches of Panagia, Agios Antonios, and Michael the archangel, works of the reputed Kefalas craftsmen, are examples of folk architecture of the 19th century.
A further example of the work of the same craftsmen is the Public School of Kefalas, which in accordance with the decision of the county council of Hania will house the Environmental Educational Centre of the prefecture, a foundation that will play a definitive role in the development of the municipality of Vamos. Other interesting communities are Paleloni and Drapanos in the direction of Kokino Horio.
The road from Paleloni leads to Embrosgialo, a relatively easily accessible place, along the steep coastline, which extends to Georgioupoli.

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GAVALOHORI
(Gavalohori - Agios Pav;os - Aspro - Agios Vassilios)

The small village Aspro (Koprana), built upon a hill, consists mainly of buildings dating from the 18th century and is inhabited predominantly by foreigners.
Gavalohori is a large old village with particularly interesting and well-preserved folk architecture. In this officially protected, traditional village a lot of interesting buildings can be found, such as the 18th century two-roomed, arched olive oil press, the temples of Panagia and Agios Sergios, the old school and many residences.

Visitors can also find the unique folklore museum of the prefecture of Hania, organised by the Ministry of Culture, filled with a wealth of displays of folk life.

The landscape around the village still has its natural beauty. Plenty of opportunities for walks are provided around the group of Venetian wells, the Roman cemetery, the neighbourhood and the church of Agios Pavlos.
A women association continuing the old art of lace making (kopaneli) and dealing generally with alternative tourism also exists in Gavalohori. Gavalohori could offer environmental management training as well as other activities at the Environmental Educational Centre, which is currently under construction.

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PLAKA
(Plaka - Almirida - Kambia)

On the road from Kalives there is a junction for Almirida.
The old monastery of Panagia Keras is located on a beautiful small beach after Kasteli, while towards Gavalohori one can see remains of the old public road with its arched bridge and tollbooth.
Almirida, a small fishing village, evolved into a tourist resort a few years ago and is an area which demands particular attention from the municipality of Vamos.
At the entrance of the village the 13th division for Byzantine antiquities of the Archaeological Receipts Fund has uncovered the ruins of an old (6th century) Christian Basilica separated into three, with mosaics, which are both of excellent quality and have been exceptionally well preserved.
On Finikias hill above the Basilica (as well as on the small island of Karga) are the remains of a Greek-Roman town a short distance away from Almirida.
The village of Plaka is built on the slope of a hill with a view of the Souda bay. It is a community with interesting architectural style, which is unfortunately changing due to intense building mainly for tourist purposes.
The surrounding environment has maintained its character well and is ideal for walks either inland or along the coast.
Plaka retains its traditional identity, which must be protected through checks on new buildings in order to prevent the alteration of the traditional architectural style.
Every summer Cretan music festivals take place in Plaka, the "Plakiana", in honour of Michael Papadakis, from Plaka, a fine lyra player of recent years.

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KOKKINO HORIO

Kokino Horio, which is located at a higher altitude, has maintained its traditional architectural style even more so than the other villages with its narrow roads, beautiful gates and tiled roofs.
A group of cisterns, built in a sloping field, gather the rainwater, an interesting example of local architecture, dealing with the permanent problem of lack of water.
Above Kokino Horio one can see the strangely shaped hill Drapanokefala or Calapodha (so named during the venetian occupation). The coastline northwest of the village is an extremely interesting place for a stroll due to the ground formation and the caves, such as the cave of Petsi (or Karavotopos).
Another cave called Katalimata, located at the centre of the village, is also an interesting site.
At cape Drapano, approximately 10 metres under water, is the impressive Elephant cave, an area 60mx60m full of stalactites and stalagmites of various shapes and colours.


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KALAMITSI ALEXANDROU

The small community of Kalamitsi Alexandrou is situated 8 km away from Vamos. It is an old and well-preserved village with narrow streets, the large, modern, cross-shaped and domed church of Agia Triada and impressively constructed underground reservoir "Softas" dating from the Turkish occupation.

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KAINAS

The southwest road from Vamos leads through the well-preserved community of Tsikoliana to the interesting village of Kaina, which has many buildings dating from the years of the Turkish occupation. Outside the small community of Genitsari Metohi or Platanos, one can find the church of Agios Antonios with its frescoes from the 14th century, the beautiful location Sopoto and on the national road the small church of Agios Fanourios where many people come to worship and where interesting religious events take place.
From Kaina the national road provides a further route to the district of Vamos and access to the mountainous area of Fre.

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XIROSTERNI
(Xirosterni - Litsarda)

The road east of Vamos leads through a group of small villages, surrounded by wonderful scenery and very well preserved local folk architecture. Xerosterni, which is built around the interesting church of Christ and in whose honour a festival takes place every year on the 5th and 6th of August, is the best preserved village of all, maintaining its traditional style with many old houses.
The road continues towards Litsarda passing through the archaeologically interesting cave of Dafne or Tripa.
Even though the village has lost some of its traditional character it remains interesting and it is worth visiting the church of Panagia with its fine wood-carved reredos and icons made by the Rethymnian A. Vivilakis.

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SELLIA
(Sellia - Souri - Likotinara)

The community of Pano and Kato Selia is built on the slope of a hill and surrounded by greenery. It boasts interesting examples of folk architecture, like the older village of Souri, with its neoclassical church of Agios Ioannis Theologos.
The coast with the steep cliffs and the wide variety of self-growing plants near Likotinara is an area of interest and is included with the surrounding area in the European Community Directive, Natura 2000. Kefalas and the nearby communities of Selia and Xerosterni surround a big formation (Dolinis), Roupakia or Orpakia, an area rich in woody plants, old agricultural facilities (roads, stone farm houses, wells and other facilities), flora and fauna.
Through the environmental educational programmes this area of natural beauty will develop and prosper.

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Photographs
  1. Aerial view of Vamos
  2. Vamos
  3. Cultural Association
  4. Vamos: Alleyways
  5. Vamos Park
  6. Kafeneion
  7. Municipal guest house
  8. Memorial
  9. Katomeri: The monastery of Panagia (our Lady)
  10. Agios Georgios monastery
  11. Douliana Panoramic
  12. Douliana
  13. Church of Timios Stavros (16th century)
  14. Environmental Education Centre
  15. Paleloni
  16. Gavalohori
  17. Gavalohori: wells
  18. Almirida
  19. Almirida
  20. Plaka
  21. Kokkino Horio
  22. The cave of the elephants
  23. Kalamitsi Alexandrou: panoramic
  24. Kalamitsi Alexandrou: old bridge
  25. Kainas
  26. The chapel of agios Fanourios
  27. Xerosterni
  28. Litsarda
  29. Sellia
  30. Souri
  31. Roupakia


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